Strauss & co - 22 November 2010, Cape Town

16 10 Enamel, pink topaz, sapphire and diamond pendant, by Carlo Giuliano, 1874-1895 set to the centre with a cushion-cut pink topaz enclosed by a blue and white enamel border, within an open work enamel frame of stylised leaf and half flowerheads, further embellished with four collet-set sapphires, old-cut and rose- cut diamonds, terminating with a drop- shaped pearl, enamel bail, seed-pearl and trace-link chain, with applied maker’s plaque C.G. for Carlo Giuliano, in original red and gilt-tooled leather case, stamped C&A. GIULIANO, 115 PICCADILLY, LONDON Pearl not tested and unwarranted as such R60 000 – 80 000 In 1874, Carlo Giuliano opened premises at 115 Piccadilly, London. In 1912 the firm moved to 48 Knightsbridge and closed in 1914. Carlo Giuliano was inspired by Renaissance jewels. They stimulated his ideas and were only rarely models for exact replicas. Working on Renaissance principles of design, and improving their techniques he translated a past style into his own highly individual (and wearable) jewels, concentrating on neck ornaments, pendants and necklaces. He used delicate, open gold scroll-work, enamels and stones chosen for their colour, such as peridots, pink sapphires, brown zircons, baroque pearls and occasional sprinklings of rose diamonds. He was a complete master of the art of enamelling, using various techniques of ronde bosse, champlevé, and cloissoné, in exquisite colour combinations or the startling contrast of black and white. His designs appeared to be traditional but he cleverly chose to express his own adventurous ideas within a refined, tasteful and acceptable framework. Vivienne Becker, Antique & Twentieth Century Jewellery: A Guide for Collectors, Published by Robert Hale, 1977, p 184