Strauss & co - 6 February 2012, Cape Town

280 Tourmaline and diamond brooch, Erich Frey, 1960s rectangular abstract, set with step-cut and collet-set green tourmalines and brilliant-cut diamonds, maker’s mark, width approximately 6cm R15 000 – 20 000 281 9ct gold bangle, Erich Frey the hinged front designed as a half- band of stylized and textured cellular indentations, maker’s mark, 29g, the inner diameter approximately 6cm R4 000 – 6 000 282 Diamond and gold ring, Erich Frey claw-set in a geometric style with four brilliant-cut diamonds, weighing approximately 1.5 carats, maker’s mark, size J R5 000 – 6 000 283 Diamond and gold ring, Erich Frey set to the centre with a collet-set marquise-cut diamond, weighing approximately 0.90 carats, maker’s mark, size J R9 000 – 12 000 284 9ct gold pendant, Erich Frey, 1970s designed as a pair of love birds resting on a bar to a herring-bone chain, maker’s mark, 20g, length approximately 19,5cm R3 000 – 4 000 285 Pair of gold and ivory inlaid cufflinks, Erich Frey, 1970s rectangular, inlaid with blackened ivory dot and line decoration, maker’s mark, 25g (2) R4 500 – 5 000 Erich Frey (1917-2004) German-born Erich Frey (1917-2004) spent 25 years of his career in South Africa. During this time he brought innovation to the design approach of local manufacturing goldsmiths. He drew inspiration from the South African landscape, plant life, African art and the abundance of local and precious and semi-precious stones. He incorporated materials other than precious stones (such as wood and ivory) in his designs and explored these materials’ natural form, texture and colour in composing their precious metal settings, see lots 285 and 286. Born in Dusseldorf, he came from a family where the teaching of handcrafts was the order of the day. He underwent his apprenticeship and, in 1947, he was accepted as a member of the German gold- and silversmith guild. He lectured at the Kunst undWerkschule in Dusseldorf and opened his own studio. Frey arrived in South Africa in 1952 and began his career in Pretoria. He opened his own workshop and showroom in the 1960s where he designed and manufactured a variety of products, including jewellery. He was well known for the square designs of the bands of his rings, see lots 282 and 28 3. Frey lectured at universities both in South Africa and Germany. He was a founder member of the Pretoria Gem and Mineral Club in the late 1950s, and helped set up the first degree course in precious metal design at the University of Stellenbosch in 1966. Technically speaking, Frey’s use of cut and faceted semi-precious stones and innovative ways of setting stones, opened a new dimension of gemmological use in local design of precious metal jewellery and other articles. This is evident in lot 280 , the gold and tourmaline brooch. As such, he made a significant contribution to the establishment of a gemmological industry in South Africa. Throughout his career, Frey gained both national and international exposure through his lecturing and participation in exhibitions. He clearly gained the respect of his peers both locally and in Germany as having made a unique contribution to the design and manufacture of precious metal works of art as well as the teaching thereof. cf. Fred van Staden, SA Tydskrif vir Kultuurgeskiedenis 25(1), June 2011, Erich Frey and his Associates: A Unique Contribution to South African Jewellery and Design and its Goldsmith Tradition The following lots reflect a fifteen-year period of Frey’s creativity, and represent his unique style in jewellery design. 84